Uji is renowned for its temples and green tea, and indeed the entire place is a shrine for matcha devotees. Shops selling every possible type of matcha tea-flavoured sweet, food and beverage – even matcha-flavoured espresso – line the road leading to the gates of the 10th-century Buddhist Byodo-in Temple, a World Heritage-listed site. Inside, a path leads around a lake, past the strikingly elegant Phoenix Hall to a modern museum containing a staggering array of temple treasures.
Phoenix Hall within the 10th-century Buddhist Byodo-in Temple site. Antje Sonntag
For our last few days we check in to our hip urban oasis, just three subway stops from Kyoto’s central station. The Ace Hotel Kyoto was the first property opened in Asia by the Seattle-based chain, built on the company’s proven formula: rejuvenate a historical building near the centre of town and create a vibrant cultural hub around it.
The 213-room hotel occupies two buildings. One is Kyoto’s former central telephone exchange, designed in the 1920s by a pioneer of modern Japanese architecture, Tetsuro Yoshida; the new building, designed by renowned architect Kengo Kuma, is a modern take on traditional machiya houses, incorporating massive cedar beams and outsized slatted awnings. The complex is incorporated into an upscale mall known as ShinPuKan, connected to the street by a lush green courtyard.
The Ace Hotel Kyoto and ShinPuKan Mall courtyard. Antje Sonntag
In the hotel’s cavernous lobby we check in at a reception desk that bears a distinct resemblance to an enormous sliced bagel hammered out of copper. Above it, grid-like tubular copper light fixtures hang from the kigumi ceiling, composed of interlocked cedar beams constructed in the traditional (no nails) Japanese joinery style. It feels like we’ve stepped inside a giant Jenga puzzle.
We grab coffee and pastries at Stumptown, Ace’s inhouse roasters, and hit the streets to discover the delights of the neighbourhood. Across the road is a 220-year-old confectionery that once delivered sweets to the Imperial Palace; nearby, we visit a shop that has sold handmade paper since 1845.
Nishiki Market is a smorgasbord of traditional food temptations. Antje Sonntag
It’s a 10-minute walk to Nishiki Market, a 390m-long mall with a 400-year history, where we graze at the fascinating food stalls. Later, close by at the Museum of Kyoto, we stumble on an intriguing exhibition on Edo-era woodblock print master Utagawa Kuniyoshi.
There’s a surprise around every corner.
Lanterns line a stairway leading to the Kurama walk. Antje Sonntag
Glorious hillside hikes, a hip city hotel in a funky district … it’s just the right combination for a Kyoto comeback.
Need to know
- There are more than 2000 Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines in and around Kyoto. The most famous are must-sees, but be prepared for the hordes.
- The mountains around Kyoto are easily accessible for great walks and sightseeing.
- For a casual, well-priced sushi spot in town, try Sushi Sei, near the Daimaru store on Takakura-dori.
- Jetstar flies regularly to Kansai Airport in Osaka Bay, where you can hop on the limited express train for the 75-minute ride to Kyoto.
- Standard king room at The Ace Kyoto from $443 a night: acehotel.com/kyoto
Source: afr.com
George Barham, an accomplished journalist and avid gambling enthusiast, serves as the esteemed Editor-in-Chief at fly-to-australia.com, Australia’s leading source for comprehensive gambling news and insights. With an unwavering passion for both the written word and the ever-evolving world of betting and gaming, George brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise to the helm of our editorial team.
